Phajoding Goemba is a large monastic complex founded in the 13th century by a Tibetan yogi searching for a place of meditation. The numerous lhakhangs (temples), meditation houses and monastic residences at Phajoding are typical of the unique architecture found throughout Bhutan. Positioned high up on a mountainside, Phajoding is a strenuous 5km uphill trek from Thimphu. Once there, visitors not only gain an appreciation of Bhutanese monastic life but they are also rewarded with superb views across Thimphu Valley.
Buddhism in Bhutan
Mahayana Buddhism is the most widely practiced religion in Bhutan with about 75% of the country’s population following the doctrine of this faith. Other religions practiced in Bhutan include Hinduism (mainly those of Nepali or Indian descent living in the south), Bon and Christianity.
Guru Rinpoche, regarded as the Second Buddha and whose birth was predicted by Sakyamuni, the First Buddha, is credited with bringing Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century. Believed to possess supernatural powers, he was invited to the country to subdue evil spirits and demons. Since then Guru Rinpoche has become an important historical and religious figure in Bhutan with statues of his image found in many temples.
The core of early Buddhist teachings is underpinned by what is known as the Four Noble Truths. The first Noble Truth is that to exist is to suffer; the second Noble Truth is that suffering is caused by desire and attachment; the third Noble Truth is that it is only with the cessation of desire and attachment that individuals are released from suffering and then nirvana, the ultimate goal of Buddhism, can be reached.
The fourth Noble Truth relates to the correct means, known as the Eight-Fold Path, through which individuals overcome attachment and desire and achieve enlightenment and liberation from rebirth. The eight components of the path leading to enlightenment are right views, right resolve, right speech, right action, right livelihood, right effort, right mindfulness and right concentration.
While fundamentally the same, the Mahayana school of Buddhism diverged from some of the early Buddhist teachings in an attempt to make Buddhism accessible to all and not just to monks or ascetics. Compassion for and liberation of all sentient beings from suffering is their highest virtue. Mahayana Buddhists strive to become bodhisattvas, or enlightened saints who unselfishly delay their own path to nirvana in order to help others attain it.
Visitors to Bhutan can witness the rituals and practices adopted by Buddhists in almost all aspects of Bhutanese life. For example, every Buddhist home has a shrine room, incense is regularly burned, colourful prayer flags are hung at holy or auspicious sites, devotees turn prayer wheels, offerings are made to protective deities and devotees prostrate themselves before altars. Such acts of devotion are believed to help followers achieve enlightenment.
Phajoding Goemba is considered the regional centre for the spiritual tradition of seeking enlightenment through solitary meditation.
Phajoding Goemba
Phajoding Goemba was originally founded by the Tibetan yogi, Phajo Drugom Zhigpo. Most of the buildings now on the site were constructed in 1748 by Shakya Rinchen, the ninth Je Khenpo or Chief Abbot of Bhutan.
Phajoding is made up of ten lhakhangs and a collection of monastic residences and meditation houses, many of which are used for extended meditation retreats. Khangzang Lhakhang is the main temple on the site. The dimly lit altar room in this centuries-old building is brightened by golden Buddha and bodhisattva images and multi-coloured ribbons hanging from the ceiling.
Jampa Lhakhang is home to a monastic school where young monks dressed in the customary maroon robes and with shaved heads learn to live by the tenets of Buddhist teachings. Their days are spent in study, meditation and prayer rituals which involve chanting, singing and playing musical instruments such as drums, gongs, cymbals and trumpets.
A number of the buildings at Phajoding are no longer habitable. More recently, some experienced damage from the 2011 Sikkim earthquake, the effects of which were felt across large parts of Bhutan. Fortunately, in 2010, the World Monuments Fund (WMF) recognised the fragility of buildings at the site and added it to its watch list of global sites under threat.
When visiting lhakhangs, photography is not allowed in important religious rooms and it is customary for the shoes and hat to be removed before entering. It is considered auspicious to make a small offering of money at altars. Visitors are asked to be respectful of the needs and privacy of the monks at Phajoding Goemba and not disturb the tranquility of the environment in which they live and meditate.
Trekking to Phajoding Goemba
The trek from Motithang (2360m) to Phajoding Goemba (3640m) is the last day of the Druk Path Trek if started in Paro or the first day of it if started in Thimphu. It is a strenuous ascent through shady pine forests, mainly along eroded livestock trails. Trekking poles are recommended equipment for this day trek, especially for the descent as the trail is steep and stony in parts and can be slippery.
Those visitors to Phajoding with enough energy left after the uphill trek to the site can ascend a further 300m through rhododendron and juniper forests to Thuji Druk Goemba (3950m), a remote meditation centre built into a precipitous cliff face.
Once trekkers reach this mountainside monastic complex, the opportunity to witness traditional Buddhist practices which have helped forge Bhutan’s cultural history and identity for centuries is a fitting reward for their efforts.
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Sally Piper - Sally Piper is a published writer whose fiction and non-fiction has appeared in Australia and the UK.
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